Vondeling offers diverse world of wine on one farm

“The world in one country”. Our one-time country marketing slogan could just as well be applied to South African wine, where the various influences of two oceans and the ancient geology of folded mountains meet at the southern tip of Africa to create diverse wine-growing conditions usually found continents apart.

As much as our diversity of cultures, traditions, scenery and natural resources are a selling point for tourists and investors, so too the diversity of geography and climate is an asset for the wine industry – the range of different terroirs supporting a vast variety of wine styles.

What really sets us apart is that one doesn’t have to travel very far to experience these differences. In France, for example, you’d have a journey of more than 700km to compare the cabernets of Bordeaux in the west to the syrahs of the Rhone in the east, where in South Africa you’ll find them cheek-by-jowl in Stellenbosch and Paarl.

Or even on the same farm, in the case of Vondeling in the tiny Voor Paardeberg ward of Paarl.

Co-owner Julian Johnsen says the different micro-climate on the estate enable them to grow both Mediterranean and Bordeaux varietals on the slopes and valleys of the Paardeberg mountain “as long as we take care to plant in the right place”.

“Although classified as wine of origin Paarl, our distinct ward of Voor Paardeberg is unique in that we enjoy the benefits of being situated on the granite slopes of the Paardeberg, but many of our vineyards are situated on the cooler south-west-facing aspect. The Swartland is on the other side of the mountain, so there are many similarities in terroir.”

The unique growing conditions and proximity to the Swartland mean there’s a definite, and growing, Mediterranean slant to the Vondeling range, with their flagship Monsonia red blend being predominantly shiraz, with mourvedre, grenache rouge, carignan and a splash of viognier.

The wine is lovely – rich and opulent, the dark, juicy fruit balanced with typical Rhone-style savoury- leatheriness, touches of spice and a lingering tasty finish (R215 cellar door).

Conservation of the estate’s rich fynbos diversity is a cornerstone of Vondeling’s approach to farming and wine, hence the red named for the endemic Monsonia and the Babiana white blend for the rare flower found only on the Paardeberg.

The wine too is a rare treat – a blend of chenin with typical Mediterranean varietals viognier, roussanne and grenache blanc, with a lift of freshness from a dash of chardonnay. It’s lush and fragrant, with some of the butteriness of a chardonnay but very different flavours – fresh fruit and caramel notes unfold in layers of flavour, each component adding its own touch but the whole hanging together in delectable balance (a shade under R200 and totally worth it).

The range is really worth exploring, including the fresh and flavourful sauvignon blanc (R85), succulent and vibrant with subtle tropical fruit, zingy lime and a flinty finish; and the tongue-in-cheek named Baldrick Shiraz (R95) that has everything you want in a shiraz – pepper, inky fruit and savouriness - a great go-to red for any occasion.

The wines are widely available and Johnsen will be presenting them at the I Love PE wine show next month.